In addition to all these modern attractions, visitors to the area also
have the opportunity to step back in time and explore relics from the
ancient kingdom of Champa, most notably the unique Po Nagar (Thap Ba)
Temple tower.
Po Nagar is the biggest tower in an architectural complex comprising
four temple towers that were built and upgraded several times from the
7th and 12th centuries. The Po Nagar tower was constructed between 813
and 817. It is a square, two storey-tall, red brick tower with numerous
tiers and levels built on a hill outside the city facing east towards
the sea. The bricks are laid so tightly together that the mortar is
almost invisible. Visitors climb up many stairs to the upper level of
the hill where four towers are situated in a square.
The outside of the Po Nagar tower appears quite ornate with many
pilasters, carvings and tiers of miniature towers on the temple roof.
The main part of the tower has decorative elements such as bas-reliefs
and terra-cotta statues symbolizing the goddess Po Nagar and the God
Tenexa, as well as fairies and animals such as deer, golden geese,
lions, etc. The main tower is dedicated to the wife of the god Shiva
called Yan Po Nagar, who was the goddess of the country.
The Po Nagar Tower has four vertical levels, each with an entrance and
miniature towers at the four corners. Inside the temple, there is a 2.6
metre tall statue of the Goddess made from black granite sitting on a
lotus-shaped stone base and leaning against a large stone plate shaped
like a fig leaf. This statue is considered a masterpiece of Cham
sculpture; the perfect balance between carving, polishing and embossing
techniques.
The other three towers on the top of the hill are dedicated to the
Indian supreme God Shiva and his two sons, Sanhaca and Ganeca.
The Thap Ba (Po Nagar) Festival is held annually from March 20th to the
23rd in the lunar calendar to praise the Goddess who built up the land,
kept the Cham race alive, discovered rice and taught the people how to
farm and make handicrafts.
There are two parts to the festival, a sacred ceremony and other festive activities.
The ceremony begins with "changing the robes" of the Goddess, which
invlolves bathing her with perfumed water and dressing her in new
garments. This is followed by a solemn ritual, praising the merits of
the Mother Goddess and praying for peace, happiness and prosperity.
Afterwards, there is dancing, singing, and performances acting out the
old stories and legends in front of the main tower. The beautiful Cham
girls in the tower's mystical bas-reliefs seem to come to life swaying,
their charming slender bodies and waving their sun-tanned arms to invite
visitors back to the time of the original, flourishing kingdom of
Champa.